Collection Report
SS 2013

Fabric enthusiasts from ADenim show off their flair for this blue material

Not just denims
Jeans are the heart of the ADenim collection. The collection already features ten different models, and another one will be added in Spring/Summer 2013: the existing models will be joined by straight-fit Andrew, a 5-pocket model with French front pockets. ADenim loves experimenting with this blue fabric and different ways of treating it. With no less than 27 washes, the label shows that it is remaining true to its essence – denims. Just like the brand’s DNA, which can be expressed in one word: real. This is exactly how the looks are meant to be. It’s also why the label offers all the looks possible from raw denims via clean washes to vintage denims. New to the summer collection are a number of light bleached variations, white denims and light selvedge jeans in vintage wash. However, the dark jeans certainly don’t vanish in the Spring/Summer season: the best example of this is a black black in various washes. And a raw item which is one of the collection highlights: for the first time ever, the denim range now features an unwashed Red Selvedge made of Italian denim. The jeans do not come into contact with a single drop of water while they are being made, and can therefore be worn in individually by their future owner. Along with the robust jeans styles, the makers of ADenim have also designed light summer denims. The fact that these precisely crafted pants still seem robust is due to the washes. Handmade used effects and laser finishes give all these denims their natural look. In order to make the finishes and destroys as real as possible, a “roof-destroyed denim” project was realized between December 2010 and January 2012. Various ADenims were exposed to all seasons and weather conditions on the flat roof of the company building in Mönchengladbach for one year just to see how the fabrics would change.

Roof-destroyed denims
The Spring/Summer 2013 collections features the first ever jeans with roof-destroyed wash. The texture resembles that of a pair of denims which lay on the flat roof of ADenim’s company premises for more than one year. Originally, when jeans were still worker pants, they had to stand up to a lot. Gold miners, cowboys, farmers and laborers valued these pants for their durability, even though they were by no means indestructible – the treatment they were subjected to always left traces. “Roof-destroyed denims” build directly on this past and became the subject of an experiment in December 2010. The experiment used raw denims which spent all four seasons outside and were exposed to wind and all kinds of weather. Sun bleached the denims and rain washed out the indigo over a period of months. That year, the pants had to survive a long, hard winter with lots of snow and violent storms. The surface on which they were placed, a flat graveled roof, also left its mark: spots of green moss. After more than 14 months, the makers of ADenim brought the jeans back inside and used the best of them as a model to make “roof-destroyed denim”. One model with this name has now become the successor to the original worker pants. “We wanted to see how our jeans behave in extreme conditions, how the color and fabric changes,” explains Marco Lanowy, Managing Director of ADenim.

Non-Denims
The non-denim part of the ADenim collection has become very well established. The no-frills collection in vintage look mainly uses natural fibers such as linen and cotton. Perfect for hot, sunny weather, linen garments feature particularly strongly this summer. They include a linen denim, a model made of coarse linen, the structure and grip of which is reminiscent of a linen sack, and a linen-cotton Pepita which with its discreet nap looks very vintage and used. Along with the Pepita, there is another mini design made of 100% cotton finished with a special cold-dip dye for a soiled effect which makes the check more subtle and gives the pants a vintage look. The label’s love of color is reflected in the large range of colors on offer (red, green, yellow, light blue, sand, navy…) for a cotton gabardine. ADenim also shows its feeling for fabrics with a cotton canvas which with its 5-pocket look and discreet vintage dye and used effects on the thighs and seat strongly resembles worker pants. “We make pants we would like to wear ourselves. Clean, made of good fabrics with handcrafted finishes. Without frills, no glaring labels or stitching. In actual fact, we leave quite a lot out,” is how Marco Lanowy, Managing Director of ADenim, describes the direction taken.

The exciting feeling which comes when ADenim touches your skin for the first time. The elaborate manufacturing process ensures that every ADenim is a perfect fit. Each pair of jeans is subjected to complex washes and handwork in a process lasting several hours (up to seven). This makes the high-quality fabrics robust but pleasantly soft. Finally the denims are individually hand-finished using several different processes. The result is jeans with character. Unique garments which exude quality and are proud to claim: “Handcrafted in Casablanca”.