12/14/2011

The all-weather wash! ADenim lets jeans weather naturally

Styled by the weather: roof-destroyed denims

Over the last few months, the roofs of ADenim’s central office in Mönchengladbach have been the scene of probably one of the most unusual jeans experiments ever performed. The denims were exposed to all kinds of weather on the flat roof in a one-year test as part of the “Roof-Destroyed Denims” project. Sun and rain, ice and snow are the ingredients for a natural patina, with the changes in the fabric and colour being constantly documented by a team of experts; they will subsequently be integrated into the regular process of collection development. In other words, some of the samples exposed on the roof will serve as stylistic inspirations for the next ADenim collection. This is not the jeans pioneer’s first unusual project. The label is renowned for new ideas far from the mainstream and mass production.



“Partly cloudy with sunny spells and occasional showers. Maximum temperature seven degrees, local risk of frost overnight.” A weather forecast like this makes normal people shake their heads. Not so ADenim in Mönchengladbach: here all eyes turn eagerly to the company’s roof. Over the last few months, the denim fashion centre has been the scene of heated discussions not only about styles and cuts, but also about the weather. And also about the most unusual experiment in the history of this precious blue fabric.

Since December 2010, jeans from the label’s raw denim range have been exposed to all kinds of weather on the roof of the company building. “We want to see how our jeans behave in extreme conditions, how the colour and fabric change,” explains Marco Lanowy, Managiong Director of ADenim. For him, there is currently no such thing as good or bad weather, only exciting weather. No matter what comes from the sky: right now, climate changes on the lower Rhine are not a nightmare, but the icing on the cake of a natural jeans treatment.

A few manoeuvres were made to give nature a helping hand. One model is laid flat on the roof with the legs spread out. It is kept in place with nothing but pebbles from the river (working title: \"Dirty Earth Denim\"). One denim was whipped by the wind, undergoing constant creasing in different directions (\"Roof Top Thunder Storm Denim\"). Another pair of jeans had the legs rumpled (\"Compressed Roof Top Denim\"). The “Knotted Fire Escape Denim” was subjected to the most severe treatment. For this study, the jeans legs were twisted together, fixed with cords and then knotted to a fire escape. While other people are talking about deceleration and slow food, a wholly new slow look is being created in Mönchengladbach: styled by the weather, under the patient observation of the resourceful jeans makers.

“We have long been fascinated by destroyed effects,” says Marco Lanowy. However, allowing certain ADenims to acquire a patina in the most natural manner is something new, even for him. The results are to inspire future collections. One pair of the roof denims (there have been up to twelve at times) has already been brought inside and the individual effects examined. The partial bleaching by the sun in particular could become an interesting trend theme for ADenim.

As unusual as the experiment may be, it once again shows the jeans pioneer’s penchant for new ideas far removed from mass-produced merchandise and the mainstream. “We aren’t aiming to make a quick buck, we are planning for the long term,” explains Marco Lanowy. “We constantly hold a vision of the perfect jeans.” A tough goal which also entails making every ADenim unique. The extensive treatments are carried out individually by hand in the vibrant Moroccan capital Casablanca. It’s by all means possible that the weather may take over some of this work in the future.

The exciting feeling which comes when the ADenim touches your skin for the first time. The elaborate manufacturing process ensures that every ADenim is a perfect fit. Each pair of jeans is subjected to complex washes and handwork in a process lasting several hours (up to seven). This makes the high-quality fabrics robust but pleasantly soft. Finally the denims are individually hand-finished using several different processes. The result is jeans with character. Unique garments which exude quality and are proud to claim: “Handcrafted in Casablanca”.
compressed roof top denim
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detailed 02
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dirty earth denim
knotted fire escape denim
roof top thunder storm denim